The popular Netflix series “High on the Hog” and other documentaries like it finally give respect where it’s due. The reality is “American” food is not hamburgers and steaks, as we typically define it. But rather, the cuisine this country was built on was molded by the hands of African slaves to form what most would categorize as “soul food”—the rich, hearty flavors that make us all feel warm and loved.
Still, when Americans think of soul food, oftentimes the idea of unhealthy and less-refined cuisine comes to mind. Though our grandmas were known to not slack on the butter and lard, African-American cuisine is rooted in so much more. Throughout the ages, Black people have elevated the basic and bare minimum to create flavors like no other.
With foodie culture on the rise, there’s greater interest in the stories that follow our food from farm to table. And that’s why it’s so important when Black chefs draw from these stories to carry on the rich history behind our food. Here are three chefs doing just that.
Photos by staff photographer Camille Hughes, @herhues_, Her Hues
Chef Joya: @cookingwithjoy, Cooking with Joya
Chef Calvin: @chefcalvinw, Black Farms Matter
Chef Cherry: @veganeats.clt
Chef Joya
Adjoa Courtney, or “Chef Joya” as we know her, has gained nationwide notoriety for how she’s worked to “veganize” many of the dishes we know and love, without sacrificing taste.
“I like people to attach their food to memories,” she told The Block. “I let people know you don’t have to continue to eat pork or to eat beef to remember the food that you grew up on.”
Chef Joya, who’s from Milwaukee, Wis., was raised vegan since age seven. Though she gave up the vegan lifestyle for a time as an adult, the health benefits drew her back in, and Chef Joya began pulling on the recipes and flavors she remembered from her grandmother’s kitchen.
“I always cooked for friends and family. I came from a background in cooking, so I knew how to communicate and show love through food,” Chef Joya explained.
She’s now a private chef who’s made it her mission to spread joy (no pun intended) through food and show others that going vegan doesn’t have to mean boring dishes or giving up the soul food we’re familiar with.
Chef Joya’s latest e-cookbook “From My Ancestors’ Table” pays respect to the African and Caribbean flavors that built the diverse palates of Black people.
Jollof Rice, Nigerian spinach stew and jerk “ribz” are just a few of the recipes.
“I’m big on taking risks, doing the work and actually going for what you know.”
Chef Joya
Chef Joya’s popularity has skyrocketed thanks to her social media presence. What started with a 30-day vegan challenge is now a community of both vegans and “kinda vegans” looking to her for help with making the most of a plant-based diet. Living the entrepreneur and influencer life isn’t easy, but it’s rewarding.
In addition to making connections in whatever industry you want to succeed in, “You really have to get the knowledge, and put in the work,” Chef Joya said. “You have to develop a skill set; develop your talent and integrity. Trust yourself, and put your all into it.”
Chef Calvin
It’s been a long time since Chef Calvin Wright, Jr. wore a chef’s jacket, and that’s just how he likes it. When it comes to making a mark in culinary, The Queens, New York, native is about being true to himself. And his two sons are a big motivation.
“Culinary has given me a different way to provide for my family,” he told The Block. “There’s nothing else I want to do with my life, ya know.”
Chef Calvin started Black Farms Matter, a community advocacy organization focused on bringing fresh, affordable food to underserved communities through community gardens and city kitchens. Today, Black farmers only account for about 1 percent of the farming community, and much of the land our ancestors once owned is gone or forgotten because of lack of knowledge.
“My goal is to help Black Farmers get back to that time in 1920 when there were one million Black farmers.”
Chef Calvin has earned his stripes in culinary, building on his experience in restaurants to now serve as a private chef getting major gigs across the nation. Beyond his impeccable plating and flavors, he’s all about serving food that also serves the culture.
“Legacy is so important to me. My ancestors—I come from a dope legacy.”
Chef Calvin
Knowing how our community has lost so much, Chef Calvin keeps legacy at the heart of what he does.
His grandfather was a prominent business owner in Jamaica, Queens, and his great-grandfather owned a farm in Fruitland, Maryland (which Chef Calvin now has the paperwork for).
“Yeah, 180 acres of land—which was unheard of right after slavery. The slave owner didn’t have children or a wife. So he left it to my family,” he explained.
Historical context like this puts Chef Calvin’s work through Black Farms Matter into perspective. Now, he’s working to teach others the power they gain by using the success and lessons within our lineage to build better futures for those who are young, Black and gifted.
Chef Cherry
When Angel Cherry, a.k.a. Chef Cherry, started selling vegan plates out of her home, she had dreams of doing more. Now, she’s about to celebrate the two-year anniversary of her Charlotte-based restaurant Vegan Eats CLT.
Chef Cherry has pushed through a lot since getting started, including the passing of her brother last year. But it’s all contributed to the passion driving her business. Customers appreciate the vulnerability she’s shown through her healing and knowing this is about more than just food.
Describing her restaurant, she says it’s different in that, “It’s not just southern comfort food, but we also do Jamaican; we also do Mexican. We do anything that every carnivore loves.”
Chef Cherry’s loaded vegan nachos, “seafood” boil and “wangz and thangz” have quickly become favorites.
Cooking isn’t Chef Cherry’s only passion. She’s also an experienced makeup artist. For those with more than one talent, she’s says, “You most definitely can do it all.”
“But it’s more about making sure whatever you do, fully do it—regardless of whether you feel like someone is doing the same thing,” she added.
“If it doesn’t work out, it doesn’t work out. At least you know that you tried. But, go full throttle on everything you want to do.”
Enjoyed this article? Check out our interview with KJ Kearney, founder of Black Food Fridays.
